Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Quito, ECUADOR-Colonial Center- a brief detour

Quito has the largest identifiable colonial center in Latin America. It has the famous designation as a World Heritage Site and as such must restrict development, renovation,painting and change to maintain it's status. What I find remarkable about this colonial center of town is that it is still a vibrant, lower working class environment that has been cleaned up. It has only one street, La Ronda, that has received, in my opinion, undue sanitary whitewashing to the point of museum. Others might not agree but then,this IS my Blog. Over the years, drunks and prostitutes have been removed, streets closed to traffic which makes this a walking friendly area. Social police are present to offer directions and be helpful. Guns and rifles are not visible. Something else isn't very visible. Hole in the wall restaurants that cater to the lunch crowd. Seating between 4-8 tables 'cheek to jowl' I had a lunch that cost me $2.00. A large glass of juice, a large bowl of tasty soup, a plate full of rice,beans, a slice of plátano,and several pieces of cooked pork. $2.00, just like we remember it when we travelled 20-30-40 years ago. Gas is $1.46 regular. Enough. Back to Colonial Quito. A few pictures of the vibrant area at 10,000' and an interior that is old.

[caption id="attachment_501" align="alignnone" width="1024"] looking over colonial Quito toward el panacillo (the breadloaf'
another view

note how the string is lashed around a supporting timber, interwoven around the bamboo. Age unknown but must be over 150 years old and still holding strong.[/caption]

a contrast between a ceiling that is old and hand painted and the substrata that is supporting the ceiling. It is bamboo held together with 'cabulla' a string made from a plant in the maguey family.


Sunday, October 7, 2012

Costa Rica/October 6th Four Seasons in a day

[caption id="attachment_379" align="alignnone" width="683"] Guillermo, our Mexican psychiatrist, just got too fed up with the slow border crossing and started to do something about it.[/caption]

We are still in the rainy season although some days are bright and clear and others are full blown torrential rains. We might start out the day with the temptation of even just riding in a tee shirt since it is hot yet soon after the rain clouds form off in the distance, the wind really picks up and we know what is coming next. Visibility drops, we get buffeted by strong winds and focus on the road demands more intense concentration.

The day before yesterday we hit four seasons. An early morning sun with a hint of wind and heavy rains made for a long and difficult ride. We arrived in San Jose, a typical big city with all the traffic issues and navigation challenges imaginable. After a one hour stop to dry off, we again hit the road late in the afternoon. We were headed toward the Panama border. The winding mountain road took us up 10,000 and temperature changes from 46-72. Visibility was extremely low, my headlights had to remain on high beam and the curvy slow road was daunting. With no places to stay that were acceptable we continued on over the mountains at a snails pace with an occasional truck,bus or fast car passing on the curves.

We arrived about 8 pm ( one of our rules is not to ride at night...but if there is nowhere to stay, that is what you do.)at a hotel which was new, dry and too expensive but under the conditions....the owner had a BMW motorcycle, welcomed us, took us to his other hotel and we sat and enjoyed some nice food. The next morning he came and took us back to the restaurant for a full breakfast on him. Needless to say we didn't leave until about noon. With semi dry clothes and threatening clouds we headed into some twisty backroads over and down toward the tropical coast only to be slammed by hard and warm rain. Soaked and with limited visibility under the jungle canopy I could't make out the surface changes in the road or see the side ditches. Slowing way down, attempting to get some air into my visor I realized I still had my sunglasses on...duh...visibility improved without the glasses and warm rain is better than cold.

Late afternoon found us once agin drenched then sun then more rain and darkness fell without a hotel in sight. We finally arrived at one and that was the end of another fun filled day of riding in Costa Rica.